Throughout ancient times, jewellery has played a significant role in human civilization as a sort of ornament and status symbol. In the first part of this series, we examined the intriguing history of jewellery from the prehistoric to the ancient era, we will now examine Jewellery Through The Ages, the development of jewellery from the Medieval to the contemporary day, in this second and last episode, tracking the introduction of new styles, materials, and processes.
We will look at how jewellery has mirrored societal changes over time, from the extravagance of the Baroque era to the elegance of Art Deco. Join us as we explore the extraordinary history of jewellery and venture further into its fascinating past.
Medieval Jewellery
During the medieval period, jewellery continued to be a symbol of wealth and status. This reflected the hierarchical nature of the society at the time as well as the status-conscious mindset of the people. Jewellery during this time evolved to also reflect religious beliefs. The Crosses, amulets, and relics were worn as a way of showing devotion to Christianity. Gothic jewellery, in particular, was characterized by elaborate designs featuring religious motifs such as crosses, saints, and angels.
Prior to the late 14th century, polishing was more common than cutting for jewels. The value of gemstones was based on their size and rich colour. During this time, enamels, which are ground glassware treated to a high temperature and blasted onto a metal surface, allowed goldsmiths to colour their jewellery designs. Enamelling, as well as other techniques developed during this period, are still commonly utilized today in a variety of ways.
The Dunstable Swan Jewel, a livery badge in gold and ronde bosse* enamel, about 1400. CC BY 2.0
* Ronde-bosse, en ronde bosse or encrusted enamel is an enamelling technique developed in France in the late 14th century that produces small three-dimensional figures, or reliefs, largely or entirely covered in enamel.
The major stylistic phases of medieval jewellery include the Barbarian, Byzantine, Carolingian, Ottonian, Viking, and Late Middle Ages, which saw the emergence of similar Western European styles. Personal adornment jewellery shared many styles and techniques with decorated metalwork, which was the most prestigious form of art during this period. Religious objects, such as reliquaries, church plates, crosses, and treasure bindings for books, are among the most surviving examples of medieval jewellery due to the church’s better preservation of its treasures than secular or civic elites. For example, the Royal Gold Cup, a secular cup decorated with religious imagery, is one of a handful of survivors of the huge collections of metalwork joyaux (“jewels”) owned by the Valois dynasty who ruled France in the late Middle Ages.
The Holy Thorn Reliquary above is a magnificent piece of medieval jewellery that was crafted in the early 1400s, likely in Paris or the Mosan region of modern-day Belgium. This exquisite reliquary takes the form of a gold chest, measuring approximately 30 centimetres in height, and is adorned with intricate details such as filigree, enamel, sapphires and pearls. The front of the reliquary is set with a large rock crystal, which serves as a window to the relics inside.
The most remarkable feature of the reliquary is the thorn, believed to be from the Crown of Thorns worn by Jesus Christ during his crucifixion, which is housed inside. The thorn is surrounded by an elaborate gold framework, studded with gems and pearls, and topped by a figure of the Virgin Mary. The reliquary’s goldwork is masterful, with fine details such as the individual strands of hair on the Virgin’s head and the delicate leaves and flowers that decorate the base.
The reliquary was likely commissioned by the French royal family, and its exquisite craftsmanship and use of precious materials reflect the wealth and prestige of the Valois dynasty. The Holy Thorn Reliquary is now housed at the British Museum in London and is regarded as one of the most exceptional surviving examples of medieval jewellery.
Besides basic forms of personal jewellery, medieval jewellery included other forms, such as fittings and fasteners for clothes, hat badges, decorations for belts, weapons, purses, and other accessories, and decorated pins. Neck chains, arm rings, and ankle rings were also worn, while small pieces of jewellery were sewn into the cloth of garments to form patterns. Again, because jewellery was a significant indicator of social status, prosperous women and men often wore conspicuous pieces, while high-status children of both sexes often wore jewellery as formal wear.
Pair of showy fibulae: Gold plating on silver with inlaid garnet, glass, enamel, Part of the Treasure of Untersiebenbrunn, from an East Germanic (Gepidic) grave. Self-photographed, 5 October 2013 (James Steakley).
Renaissance Jewellery
During the Renaissance period, artists drew inspiration from the art of Ancient Greece and Rome. Wealthy Italian families funded many artists, allowing them to focus on developing their skills and style. Rather than copying ancient techniques, the classical influence on art was more about deriving a general style from ancient sculptures.
Pendant with figure of Prudence, French, second half 16th century, the back a 19th-century addition. Gold, enamel, jewels, chalcedony. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of J. Pierpont Morgan, 1917 (17.190.907)
Jewellery, however, was not directly influenced by the classical world. Ancient jewellery was not well-known at the time, except for the fashionable cameos that had remained popular throughout the Middle Ages. Instead, the classical and mythological themes served as a link to the ancient world. Although Biblical themes remained popular, classical themes gradually replaced the Gothic style of the Middle Ages as the Renaissance spread north from Italy over the course of the 16th century.
During the Renaissance, painting, and sculpture were the two main art forms that influenced the style of jewellery. Many Renaissance artists began their careers in goldsmith workshops to learn about precision and clarity of style, resulting in a close relationship between painters/sculptors and goldsmiths. As a result, Renaissance portraits depict jewellery with great detail, providing valuable insight into the jewellery produced during this period, in addition to surviving pieces.
Renaissance goldsmiths became masters of specific techniques, and specialization became a virtue. Jewellery items were often designed by a painter, cast and shaped by one goldsmith, engraved and enamelled by another, and set with gemstones by yet another specialist. The international availability of printed jewellery designs caused a blend of styles to occur all over Europe, making it challenging to classify Renaissance jewellery into well-defined groups according to production areas.
As a new world opened to more people, trade routes exploded and new connections between civilizations were established, leading to an influx of not only new styles but also raw materials like gemstones and precious materials.
Arguably the most predominant piece of jewellery during this time was the pendant, It was commonly worn on a necklace, a long gold chain, fixed to the dress, or on a chain worn on the girdle. Unlike the Medieval brooch, pendants were designed to be seen from both sides, with their enamelled backs being equally impressive as their jewel-encrusted fronts. In addition to decorative pendants, functional ones like tooth and ear-pick pendants were also popular from the late 15th century. Devotional pendants depicting Biblical scenes or the sacred monogram with the letters IHS, which is believed to have come from the Greek word for ‘Christ,’ remained fashionable. Personalized pendants featuring the bejewelled initials of the wearer and their partner or loved ones were also common, but few have survived to this day. These personal jewels were often destroyed after the death of their wearer.
Baroque and Rococo Jewellery
Jewellery in the late 16th century and early 17th century underwent a gradual transformation in its appearance, marked by the introduction of arabesque motifs, symmetry, and new methods of setting gemstones. The evolution of styles during this period can be referred to as either late Renaissance or early Baroque, depending on one’s preference. Despite the new styles gaining popularity, the traditional Renaissance themes of mythology and devotion remained prominent. The designs of jewellers such as Mignot and Lulls were widely circulated throughout Europe, ushering in a new era in jewellery design.
Pendant designs by Daniel Migot and Arnold Lulls
The Baroque and Rococo periods were marked by a more extravagant, ostentatious style of jewellery. Gems and pearls were set in gold and silver, with ornate designs featuring naturalistic motifs such as flowers and leaves. Jewellery of this era was often inspired by the courtly fashions of the time, with elaborate necklaces, bracelets, and earrings worn as a way of displaying wealth and status.
A Beautiful Example of Late Renaissance (or Early Baroque) Jewelry. An Antique Cameo, Surrounded by a Symmetrical Array of Diamonds, Rubies and Enameled Gold.
Starting in the late 1620s, there was a growing trend in jewellery design towards naturalism, beginning in France and spreading throughout Europe via printed designs. The use of pea pod shapes and later, floral designs became very popular over the next two decades, with many jewellery pieces made in this style. The increased trade with the Near East introduced new and exotic flowers to Europe, sparking a craze for them and inspiring a new field of study in botany. The Tulipomania of 1634 is an example of this flower frenzy.
Flora, which had been popular in embroidery since the late 16th century, was now adopted by jewellery designers, and painted enamel, champleve enamel, and email on ronde bosse flowers became ubiquitous. From the 1650s onward, engraving in metal became another, and eventually preferred, method of depicting flowers.
In the latter half of the 17th century, faceted gemstones became even more important in jewellery design, with mountings becoming more delicate and cluster settings giving way to naturalistic and ribbon bow designs. The bow brooch or pendant, adorned with gemstones, pearls, and enamel, became a popular motif in Baroque jewellery, originating from the ribbon used to fasten jewels to clothing.
Towards the end of the century, asymmetrical bouquets and individual flowers became more popular, with enamel use decreasing and limited to more conservative circles. There was also a growing differentiation between jewellery meant for daywear and jewellery meant to be worn in candlelight, a trend that continued into the Georgian period.
Art Nouveau Jewellery
The Art Nouveau movement of the late 19th and early 20th centuries was characterized by flowing, organic designs inspired by nature. Jewellery of this era featured delicate metalwork and gemstones set in silver, with motifs such as flowers, insects, and peacock feathers. This era was more focused on the design of the jewellery rather than the value which made natural pearls and garnets more integral in the creation of pieces of jewellery.
Gold, enamel, diamonds, and opal necklace by Lucien Gaillard, ca. 1903, via Robert Zehill Gallery
The intricate and unique style of Art Nouveau brooches and pendants is easily distinguishable. The designs aimed not only to imitate nature but to surpass its beauty. These pieces were created by Art Nouveau masters in response to the industrialization of their time, showcasing the beauty of craftsmanship and creating one-of-a-kind pieces.
Although it was a brief movement, lasting from around 1895 until the start of World War I in 1914, Art Nouveau had a significant and enduring impact on Western art history and was decidedly French. It included various forms of art and craft, such as painting, textile design, jewellery making, and architecture. These different forms of expression shared a common aesthetic of intricately adorned, nature-inspired designs.
Image 1: Enamel, diamond, and pearl pendant necklace by Henri Vever, c. 1905, via Christie’s
Image 2: Opal, enamel, and pearl pendant necklace by Georges Fouquet, c. 1900, via Christie’s
Many people find it challenging to distinguish between Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles. However, if we consider the reasoning behind their aesthetics, it becomes easier to differentiate between the two. Art Nouveau aimed to imitate nature, characterized by asymmetrical, curvy lines and floral motifs. In contrast, Art Deco celebrated the advancements of the new industrial age, with designs featuring heavy machinery and a sense of humanity surpassing nature.
The utilization of feminine figures as a form of decoration is one of the most distinctive characteristics of Art Nouveau. Often depicted in a romanticized manner, these figures were viewed as symbolic of the closeness between humanity and nature. This imagery can be seen as an allusion to Symbolism, a prevalent art movement at the time that frequently portrayed women as symbols of uncontrolled nature, representing both their allure and their potential danger.
Dragonfly corsage ornament by Rene Lalique, 1897-98, via Flickr
Art Deco Jewellery
The period now known as “Art Deco” was named after the 1925 Exposition International des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris, which focused on jewellery arts and emphasized the link between art and industry. The style drew inspiration from a wide range of sources, including Oriental, African, and South American art, as well as popular art movements like Cubism and Fauvism. Jewellery from this era was often described as “Cubist” because of its angular lines, geometric shapes, and figurative representations. The goal was to move away from the flowing lines of Art Nouveau and create cleaner, more geometric designs that eliminated unnecessary ornamentation. Art Deco jewellery also looked towards modernism and the machine age as inspiration.
Image 1: Art Deco Diamond Double Clip Brooch. Detail of the Reverse Illustrating the Removable Brooch Frame, Converting the Brooch to Two Clip Brooches.
Image 2: Art Deco Diamond Necklace, Cartier, circa 1929.
The First World War had a profound impact on women’s fashion that was unprecedented in the preceding century. With men gone, women took on hard physical labour, necessitating changes to their clothing. They abandoned their corsets, shortened their sleeves, cut their hair, and raised their hemlines. After the war, women were hesitant to return to their old, restrictive clothing and instead embraced the new fashions introduced by Paul Poiret and Coco Chanel. These styles featured simple, elegant clothing with straight lines and a more relaxed silhouette, which required a reconsideration of jewellery styles. The newfound fashion freedom also allowed women to engage in previously inaccessible activities like sports and leisure. They could enjoy cocktails and cigarettes, wear makeup, play golf and tennis, drive, yacht, and dance until dawn, all part of the new woman’s lifestyle.
In the aftermath of World War I, there was a celebratory exuberance throughout Europe, particularly in France, where previously shunned ideas, innovations, and inventions were suddenly welcomed in the spirit of rebuilding and renewal. The economy also improved, and the newfound prosperity led to an increase in the demand for luxury goods, including jewellery.
Art Deco chandelier earrings made with platinum, emeralds sapphires and diamonds.
In the jewellery world, design motifs were heavily influenced by exciting archaeological discoveries in Egypt’s Valley of the Kings, especially Tutankhamun’s tomb. Egyptian motifs such as lotus blossoms, pyramids, and scarabs were incorporated into jewellery designs. Additionally, Indian and Islamic art-inspired designers with their colourful accents and stylized forms, and Chinese dragons and architectural motifs, as well as Central American and African tribal art, were also incorporated into Art Deco designs. Notable jewellers of the time adapted these influences into their designs, popularizing them around the world.
1920 Piel Freres belt buckle. Image courtesy of Ginger Moro.
Contemporary Jewellery
Jewellery is worn for many reasons, including personal adornment, religious and cultural significance, and as a way of marking important milestones such as weddings and graduations. There are endless styles and materials to choose from, with jewellery designers constantly pushing the boundaries of what is possible with new materials, techniques, and technology.
It is difficult to classify contemporary jewellery since it has undergone a constant process of redefinition and innovation since the 1960s. Some jewellery designers draw inspiration from jewellery through the ages by incorporating elements and concepts from different eras into their work. Vintage jewellery and elements from various periods are often used to create new and intriguing art that captures people’s attention. Therefore, contemporary jewellery can be a blend of past and present, making it difficult to categorize.
The Now and Always necklace by Wallace Chan is an outstanding example of Chan’s skill of carving inside a stone called The Wallace Cut, here seen in an aquamarine surrounded by amethyst, diamond, sapphire and opal. Photo by S Tung and F Tsang. Source: The Jewellery Editor
Jewellery through the ages has formed part of human culture for thousands of years. Each era has brought its unique styles and trends, from the intricate gold and silver jewellery of the ancient Egyptians to the bold, geometric designs of the Art Deco period. Today, jewellery is more accessible than ever, with a wide range of styles and materials to choose from, making it an integral part of our lives and personal expression.
At Mark Solomon Jewellers, We use only the highest quality materials and employ skilled craftsmen and designers who are passionate about their work. We are dedicated to creating pieces that are not only beautiful but also meaningful. Whether you’re looking for an engagement ring, a necklace, a bracelet, or any other type of jewellery, we are here to help you create a one-of-a-kind piece that perfectly captures your vision. Contact us today for more information.
