We’ve discussed diamond cut and diamond clarity at length. Now let’s move on to the importance of understanding diamond colour when purchasing diamonds. If you would like to brush up on these topics, click the buttons below:

Unlike the cut of the diamond, colour is influenced by nature alone. Diamonds occur in an array of rare and rich colours due to each stone’s unique chemical composition. Colours start from colourless and move to fancy colours, which include yellow, blue, pink, and the rarest diamond colour of all, which is red. When talking about the grading of white diamonds, which are the most common, chemicals such as nitrogen play a role: the less hue or colour a diamond has, the less nitrogen is present in the stone. Diamond colour is graded from D to Z; a chemically pure and structurally perfect diamond with no hue whatsoever receives the top grade of D. Grades D, E, and F fall into the ‘Colourless’ category, though E and F contain minute traces of body colour detectable under lab conditions. D-F diamonds are not only extremely rare, but as a result of their purity, they are also extremely expensive.

• The more nitrogen present in a diamond’s carbon crystal structure, the more yellow the diamond will appear.
• The absence of colour or hue is what determines a diamond’s valuation.
• Diamond colour can drastically affect the price of the stone.

A Brief Note on Coloured Diamonds

Good quality, fancy coloured diamonds are, in fact, far more expensive than their icy, white counterparts and routinely break world records at auction houses.

Colored diamonds, which come in almost every colour of the rainbow, are significantly rarer than diamonds in the D-to-Z colour range. Fancy colour occurs in only one out of every 10,000 carats of diamonds, while intense colour occurs in just one out of every 25,000 carats. The most popular fancy hues are browns and yellows. The most uncommon colours are red, green, purple, and orange.

Colored diamonds are both unusual and stunning. As a result, they are unlikely to lose popularity. Expect gemstone connoisseurs and the general public to be enthralled by these incredible rarities.

A unique pear-shaped ring featuring a beautiful pinkish brown diamond with a contrasting halo of white diamonds.

The GIA

By the 1950’s, it was becoming more and more apparent that there was a need for a standardised colour spectrum. Wanting to implement an innovative new colour scale, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) created the first universal colour system for diamonds. This diamond colour grading system remains the most trusted industry standard used by both gemmologists and the public.

Diamond Colour & Engagement Rings

Here are a few notes to remember when buying either a loose diamond to later set into a ring or a diamond engagement ring that has already been crafted:

1) When shopping for diamonds to buy, one component of the buying process that you should not underestimate is the diamond colour. Because the price of a diamond varies greatly depending on its colouring, choosing the proper hue for your individual needs might help you save without compromising the look of your dream engagement ring.

2) Unless evaluated loose, face-down, and side by side against calibrated master stones in a controlled laboratory setting, the vast majority of untrained observers cannot distinguish a diamond’s colour grade from the one directly above or below it. Colour changes are difficult to notice in I colour and higher diamonds, even when compared side by side.

3) When a diamond is mounted in a ring and exposed to colourful surroundings, it becomes significantly more difficult to perceive colour (as opposed to the all-white background used in colour grading). Under typical lighting settings, an H colour diamond may appear as colourless as a D when set in a ring, especially if the two are not compared side by side.

4) Look for G-J diamonds for the best value in what seems to be a colourless diamond to the human eye. Choose G-H in diamonds over 1 carat and I-J in diamonds under 1 carat since colour is easier to notice in bigger diamonds (much as a big carafe of white wine reveals more colour than a small glass). These diamonds will seem to be better colour grade diamonds when set in a ring. 

5) Diamonds with more facets reflect more light and so disguise colour better than diamonds with fewer facets. If colour is a factor, choose round, princess, or other modified brilliant cuts over step cuts like emerald or asscher.

6) When it comes to metals, yellow gold and rose gold, for example, may obscure a diamond’s subtle yellow hue better than platinum and white gold. Also, if you are buying a D colour diamond, be wary of setting this colourless stone into a precious metal like rose or yellow gold, as this would somewhat defeat the point of purchasing a diamond with such a rare and pure colour.

Mark Solomon Jewellers is renowned as one of Cape Town’s leading Jewellery Designers and Manufacturers of exquisite engagement rings using beautiful South African diamonds. Browse our diamond rings online or contact one of our highly qualified jewellery designers for more information.